Bell Bush Lane Review: The Bell Was Rung and the Bush Was Hung

Bell Bush Lane Review: The Bell Was Rung and the Bush Was Hung

Two of the oldest signs in Europe, on one pub – and both of them were telling you something urgent

Bell Bush Lane holds a 4.4 from four hundred and one people, charges ten to twenty pounds, and its name contains two of the oldest signs in European drinking.

The bush

We wrote about this at the Bush Tavern in Notting Hill and it is the oldest advertisement there is.

Roman taverns hung vine leaves outside to show that wine was sold – the vine being sacred to Bacchus, and the signal being understood by a population that could not read.

England has no vines, so we used ivy – evergreen, also Bacchic, and it survives a winter.

An ivy bush on a pole above the door meant: wine is sold here. That is the whole message.

And it gives us the proverb – good wine needs no bush – which means that a genuinely good thing does not need advertising, and which Shakespeare uses in the epilogue of As You Like It as a joke about the fact that he is, at that moment, doing an epilogue.

Bell and Bush. Two signs. Both of them shouting.

The bell

Which is doing something completely different.

A bell is not an advertisement. A bell is an announcement, and in a medieval or early modern town it was the primary means of telling everybody something at once.

The church bells rang the hours, because almost nobody had a clock. They rang for services, for deaths, for fires, for curfews, for danger.

The curfew bell – couvre-feu, cover the fire – was rung at nightfall and it was an instruction: bank your hearth, put out the flame, because in a city of timber and thatch a fire left burning overnight could take the town.

Which, in 1666, in a bakery on Pudding Lane, is exactly what happened.

The last orders bell

And it is still here. It is the only bell most people in this country ever obey.

The bell rung behind a bar at closing is a direct descendant of the curfew bell – a signal, from an authority, that the drinking is over and the room must empty – and it was formalised by licensing law, which was tightened enormously in the First World War specifically to stop munitions workers drinking at lunchtime.

That legislation lasted, in essence, until 2005.

An entire nation’s drinking hours were shaped for ninety years by a wartime concern about factory productivity, and the bell that enforced it is a medieval fire precaution.

The pub

Cheap for the City, honest, and a 4.4 across a real sample.

Verdict

Good pub, and a name carrying two signals: one that says wine is sold here, and one that says put your fire out and go home.

Time gentlemen please

The phrase deserves a note, because it is dying and nobody has mourned it.

It is an announcement of the law. It is not a request and it is not a courtesy – the landlord was legally obliged to clear the premises, and the phrase is the formal notice that the permitted hours have expired.

The gentlemen part is the joke, and everybody in the room knew it was a joke, and it was said anyway, every night, in every pub in the country, for the better part of a century.

Since 2005 it has meant nothing at all. Some landlords still say it. It is now purely theatre – a ritual whose legal force evaporated twenty years ago and which nobody can quite bring themselves to stop performing.

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