Abbey Arms Review: The Abbey Was One of the Greatest in England and It Is Under a Road

Abbey Arms Review: The Abbey Was One of the Greatest in England and It Is Under a Road

Stratford Langthorne, dissolved, stripped of its lead, and quarried away by the neighbours

The Abbey Arms holds a 4.4 from three hundred and thirteen reviews, charges ten to twenty pounds, and the abbey in the name was enormous, and there is essentially nothing left of it.

Stratford Langthorne

A Cistercian abbey, founded in the twelfth century – and by the dissolution it was among the largest and wealthiest monastic houses in England.

Vast estates. A church of cathedral scale.

And it is under the railway, and under the roads, and under everything that has been put on top of it since.

Stratford Langthorne. One of the greatest abbeys in England. It is under a road.

How a building disappears

Which is worth describing, because it is not mysterious and it is not violent.

The lead comes off the roof first.

Because lead is worth money, and it was stripped and melted on site, and it was the single most valuable moveable thing in the building.

And once the roof is off, the building is dead.

Rain gets in. The timbers rot. The vaults come down.

And then everybody in the district takes the stone – because an abbey is a pile of very good dressed stone, already cut, sitting in a field, and there is nobody to stop you.

For houses. For walls. For barns.

Which is the finding

Eight postcodes and twelve hundred and ninety-two articles.

Nothing in London is destroyed by malice. It is destroyed by arithmetic.

And what the monasteries did

Which has to be said, because the dissolution is frequently defended as a straightforward reform.

They ran the hospitals. They ran the schools. They gave alms.

And when they went, there was nothing to replace them – and the Poor Laws had to be invented, from scratch, within a generation, because the poor had suddenly become everybody’s problem.

And the honest other half

Which we will not skip.

Because a great many houses were genuinely corrupt, and under-populated, and sitting on enormous wealth while doing very little with it – and everybody at the time knew that too.

Both things were true. And the reform that was needed was not the one that was carried out.

Henry did not just change the religion. He bought a constituency for it – because the men who bought the land could never allow a return to Rome, since it would cost them their estates.

Which is why the Reformation held in England and failed elsewhere. It was not theology. It was a quarter of the country’s land, in the hands of families who would fight to keep it.

And the Cistercians were the industrialists

Which is worth a line, because they are usually pictured as contemplatives in a cloister.

They were enormous commercial operations.

They ran sheep on an industrial scale, and they were among the biggest wool exporters in England. They built watermills, and drained marshes, and ran ironworks and fisheries.

An abbey was not a retreat from the economy. It was the economy, in a great many districts – and that is precisely why it was worth taking.

Verdict

Good pub, cheap, honest number.

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