Old Tom’s Bar Review: A Toast in the Old Gin Style

Old Tom’s Bar Review: A Toast in the Old Gin Style

A bar flying a name from the history of gin itself – Old Tom, the classic sweetened gin of the eighteenth century, marked by its famous black-cat sign

Old Tom’s Bar carries a 4.4 across more than a hundred and thirty reviews and flies a name that gin-lovers will recognise at once. The Prat’s naming desk, ever fond of a name with a good story behind it, was glad to raise a glass to Old Tom.

Towards the City fringe

Old Tom’s sits towards the City fringe near the north bank – a geographic stray in this south-bank survey, caught by the scrape’s reach. We flag the location plainly, as ever.

Old Tom’s Bar – a toast in the old gin style.

The old gin style

“Old Tom” is one of the great names in the history of gin – a classic style of gin, sweeter and rounder than the bone-dry London Dry that later came to dominate, and the very style that flourished in the gin-soaked eighteenth century. Old Tom is often called the “missing link” of gin – the bridge between the malty Dutch genever from which gin descends and the crisp London Dry of today. It fell out of fashion for a century, but the craft-cocktail revival has brought it triumphantly back, prized by bartenders for the rounder, gently sweet character it lends the classic cocktails. To name a bar Old Tom’s is to fly a proud flag of gin heritage.

The black cat

The Prat’s favourite detail is the cat. Old Tom gin is famously associated with the image of a black cat – “Old Tom” being a name for a tomcat – and legend tells of the “Puss and Mew” machines of the gin-craze years: cat-shaped signs mounted on tavern walls, where a thirsty customer would put a coin in the cat’s mouth and receive a shot of gin poured through a pipe, dodging the licensing laws. The black cat became the emblem of Old Tom gin, and it lends the name a wonderful bit of feline, back-street, gin-craze history. A bar called Old Tom’s carries that whole cheeky, cat-marked heritage.

The gin-lover’s bar

What the Prat enjoys is the promise of gin done properly. A bar that names itself for Old Tom is a bar that knows and loves its gin – its history, its styles, its classic cocktails – and promises the connoisseurship to match. In the great age of the gin revival, when London has rediscovered its love of the juniper spirit, a bar flying the Old Tom name declares itself a proper temple to gin. The 4.4 across a hundred and thirty reviews is a solid score for so knowledgeable and characterful a name.

Verdict

A 4.4 across a hundred and thirty-plus reviews is a solid score, and Old Tom’s earns it on a name deep in the history of gin. It flies “Old Tom” – the classic sweetened gin of the eighteenth century, the “missing link” of gin, marked by its famous black-cat sign and its cheeky gin-craze history – a proud flag of the juniper spirit.

Go for the gin, the cocktails and the heritage of the name, and raise a glass at Old Tom’s. From the “Puss and Mew” machines of the gin craze to the craft-cocktail revival, Old Tom has a story worth toasting – so put your coin in the cat’s mouth, as it were, and drink to the old gin style.

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