Refuel Review: The Hotel Bar Is the Last Great Arbitrage

Refuel Review: The Hotel Bar Is the Last Great Arbitrage

Calm, well run, half empty – and Londoners are convinced they are not allowed in, and they are wrong

Refuel is the bar and restaurant of the Soho Hotel, holds a 4.5 from four hundred and fifty-six people, and it is one of the calmest rooms in the district.

And it is a hotel bar, which means we get to make this argument one final time.

The arbitrage

Six hundred and thirty-two articles, five postcodes, and this is the single most useful thing we have found.

The hotel bar is the best value in London drinking and essentially nobody in this city uses it.

The Clipper Lounge: a 4.9 from a hundred and twenty-four people, and nobody has heard of it. The Marconi Lounge. The Lobby Bar at One Aldwych, which was built as a newspaper office with a ceiling designed to intimidate. The Cecil Beaton Bar, at ten to twenty pounds, which is cheaper than most cocktail bars in Soho.

Every one of them is calm, well run, comfortable, and considerably better than it needs to be.

And every one of them is half empty.

Refuel. Walk in. Nobody will ask. Nobody has ever asked.

Why nobody goes

It is not the price. A great many hotel bars are cheaper than the cocktail place with the rope, and all of them are cheaper than being turned away.

It is a specific, entirely irrational conviction that you are not allowed in.

That a hotel lobby is private. That somebody will ask which room you are staying in. That you will have to explain yourself.

Nobody will ask. Nobody has ever asked. The bars are open to the public, the staff would be pleased to see you, and the chairs are better than anything else in the postcode.

The Prat has now recommended this in five separate districts and fully expects to be ignored in all of them.

Why they are good

Because they are not trying to be anything.

A hotel bar has no marketing problem. It has a guaranteed customer – the person upstairs – and it therefore has no incentive whatsoever to be interesting.

So it is simply good. Comfortable chairs, proper lighting, a competent list, staff who are not performing, and a noise level at which two people can hear each other speak.

Which, after six hundred and thirty-two articles, turns out to be the entire specification.

The car park

Refuel is in the Soho Hotel, which is in a converted multi-storey car park, off a mews.

And we have made this argument in every single district.

The best rooms in London were never built for people. Coal vaults. Banking halls. Victorian public lavatories. Port cellars. Meat market vaults. A 1930s hotel basement off Piccadilly.

And a car park.

Verdict

Excellent, calm, and half empty.

Go. Walk in. Sit down. Nobody is going to stop you.

What a good bar actually needs

After six hundred and thirty-two articles, here is the complete list.

A chair you can sit in for two hours. Light you can read a menu by. A noise level at which two people can hear each other. Somebody behind the bar who is pleased to see you.

That is it. That is the entire specification, and there is nothing else on it.

No rope. No theme. No hidden door. No Prohibition premise. No Victorian explorer. No colour-changing cocktail.

And the hotel bars, which are not trying to be anything at all, deliver every single item on that list by accident.

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