Top Cuvee Review: A Cuvee Is Just What Was in the Vat

Top Cuvee Review: A Cuvee Is Just What Was in the Vat

The word means a batch, it has no legal meaning on a label, and it can be printed on anything

Top Cuvee holds a 4.4 from seventy-eight people, charges ten to sixty pounds, and it is a wine shop you may drink in – which we have argued in six postcodes is the best value in London.

And the word cuvee means almost nothing.

The word

Cuve, in French, is a vat or a tank.

And a cuvee is what was in it. A batch. A tank-full.

That is the whole meaning, and it is entirely neutral – it says nothing about quality, nothing about the grapes, and nothing about the process.

It simply means: this wine, from this vat.

Top Cuvee. A cuvee is a vat. That is all it means.

Which is why it is on everything

Because it has no legal definition on a wine label in most jurisdictions, and therefore anybody may print it on anything.

Cuvee Speciale. Cuvee Prestige. Cuvee Reserve. Grande Cuvee.

None of those terms is regulated in any meaningful sense on a great many labels, and none of them guarantees anything at all.

They exist because they look French, and because French looks like quality, and because a word that means nothing cannot be challenged.

The Prat’s oenological desk regards the cuvee family as the single most successful piece of meaningless labelling in the drinks trade and notes that it has been running for a hundred years.

The one place it does mean something

Champagne, where it is a technical term and where it is doing real work.

When champagne grapes are pressed, the first and gentlest fraction of the juice is called the cuvee, and it is the best – the cleanest, the finest, the one with the least contact with skins and stems.

The later, harder pressings are called the taille, and they are coarser.

So in Champagne, cuvee is a specific and regulated part of the pressing, and a house that says it uses only the cuvee is telling you something true.

Everywhere else it is a vat.

The other words

Which we have now assembled across six postcodes.

Reserve means nothing in most of the world. In Spain and Italy it is regulated and means something specific about ageing. In France and in the New World, on a great many labels, it means whatever the producer would like it to mean.

Old vines, or vieilles vignes, is unregulated almost everywhere. There is no minimum age.

Estate bottled does mean something. So does the appellation. So does the vintage.

Read those three. Ignore the rest.

Verdict

Excellent shop, excellent bar. Buy the bottle, pay the corkage, and stand up.

The shop-and-bar, one final time

A bar buys a bottle and sells it at three to four times what it paid, and that multiple is rent, staff, glassware, licensing, and the chair.

A shop buys the identical bottle and sells it at retail on a thin margin, and charges a small corkage to drink it there.

The wine is identical. The saving is comfortably twenty to thirty pounds.

And the only thing you have surrendered is the presumption that you are entitled to sit down.

Stand up. The best drinking in Europe is done standing – the Spanish at the bar, the Italians at eleven in the morning, the Basques with a toothpick – and the British are the only people on the continent who believe a chair is part of the wine.

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