Malt Review: The Soul of Beer, With Live Music On Top

Malt Review: The Soul of Beer, With Live Music On Top

A near-perfect live-music bar flying the plainest and truest name in drinking – malt, the germinated grain that is the very soul of beer and whisky alike

Malt posts a superb, near-perfect 4.9 across more than a hundred and fifty reviews – one of the very highest scores in this whole survey – and pairs a live-music bar with about the truest name in all of drinking. The Prat’s naming desk, fond of a name that goes to the root of things, was delighted.

Towards Bermondsey

Malt sits towards Bermondsey, on the south-bank side, serving drinks and live music to the district’s crowds. Proper Bermondsey territory, no disclaimer needed.

Malt – the soul of beer, with live music on top.

The soul of the drink

Malt is the very foundation of beer and whisky alike – the germinated grain, usually barley, that has been sprouted and dried to release its sugars, ready to be brewed or distilled. It is, quite literally, the soul of the drink: no malt, no beer; no malt, no whisky. Every pint of ale and every dram of Scotch begins with malt. To name a bar simply “Malt” is to name the essential ingredient, the root of the whole business, the grain from which all the good stuff flows. There is a lovely honesty in it – a drinking place named for the thing that makes the drink.

The plainest, truest name

The Prat’s naming desk savours the confident plainness. A single, honest, four-letter word – “Malt” – reaching for no metaphor and no grandeur, just the fundamental stuff of brewing. It is the kind of stripped-back, essential name that the Prat has come to admire across these surveys: a bar confident enough to name itself after the raw material, trusting the drinkers to understand. After a survey of admirals and apostles and Lord Mayors, there is something restful and true in a name that is simply the grain in the glass.

The music on top

The Prat enjoys the pairing of malt and music. A live-music bar built on so honest a name promises the two oldest pleasures of the alehouse together: the drink and the song. For as long as there have been taverns, there has been music in them – the singing, the playing, the dancing that the drink loosens and the room encourages. “Malt,” with live music on top, names both halves of that ancient pleasure: the malt in the glass and the song in the air. The near-perfect 4.9 across a hundred and fifty reviews suggests the combination is close to perfect indeed.

Verdict

A 4.9 across a hundred and fifty-plus reviews is one of the finest scores in the survey, and Malt earns every fraction of it. It flies the plainest and truest name in all of drinking – malt, the germinated grain that is the soul of beer and whisky alike – and pairs it with live music, the two oldest pleasures of the alehouse together.

Go for the drink, the live music and the honest truth of the name, and raise a glass at Malt. Every pint and every dram begins with the malt – and a near-perfect bar that names itself for the root of the whole business, and puts a song on top, has earned its superb score honestly.

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