A hundred and eighty-six articles across three districts, and it finishes with a bar nobody has counted
Cheers Bar Lounge holds a 4.7 from seven reviews.
Seven.
It is the forty-third and final Stratford article – and it is the last of a hundred and eighty-six across Limehouse, Bow and Stratford – and it is the correct place to stop.
Cheers
Which is worth thirty seconds, because it is the last word in the job.
It comes from cheer – which meant, originally, the face.
From the Old French chiere, and ultimately from a Greek word for the head.
And it meant your expression – your countenance. To be of good cheer was to have a good face on.
And then it became the mood behind the face
And then the drink that produces it.
And then a thing you say, holding a glass, to somebody you are pleased to see.
The word outlives the object, and nobody notices.
What we found
A hundred and eighty-six articles, on the Thames and the Lea.
The gallows at Execution Dock stood at the low-water mark, and the bodies were left until three tides had washed over them.
Fifty thousand men stood at a dock gate while a foreman on a box pointed at them – and the hiring happened in the pub the night before, and a man who could not stand a round did not work.
A tunnelling shield was copied from a shipworm.
Their jaws glowed in the dark at the match factory in Bow, and the women organised themselves, and won in three weeks.
The sewers were funded in eighteen days – not by cholera, but by a bad smell in a room where the rich were sitting.
And Lina opened an Italian shop in 1944, four years into a war between the two countries, and put her own name on the front. Her shop is still trading.
And the numbers
The star rating does not measure the venue.
It measures the gap between what somebody expected when they pushed the door and what they got.
GONG, on the fifty-second floor of the Shard, holds a 4.1. A canteen in a hospital beat it.
The one line
Eight hundred and fifty venues. Many thousands of reviews.
Whether the customer named a member of staff.
Everything else is weather.
And one thing we did not find
Orwell’s pub. The Moon Under Water – ten qualities, a garden, a swing.
And in the last paragraph he admits there is no such place.
Neither did we.
Verdict
Seven reviews. Not a rating.
Go, be the eighth. Cheers.
And the pieces of the perfect pub
Which is what we found instead, scattered across three districts and eight postcodes.
A small room. A short list. Somebody behind the bar who has tasted everything on it.
A chair you can sit in for two hours. Light you can read a menu by. A noise level at which two people can hear each other.
And somebody who is pleased to see you.
Not one high-rated venue in a hundred and eighty-six articles was themed. Not one had a rope.
The Moon Under Water is not a building. It is four things, and any operator in Britain could do all four tomorrow – and almost none of them will, because the four things are difficult and a rope can be fitted in an afternoon.


An MP said it was damaging his ability to maintain party coherence because documented institutional dysfunction undermined party narrative strategies about governance.
British comedy has three speeds: cheeky, scathing, and the nihilistic void where you realize the cheeky was just a prelude to the scathing, and the void was there all along, sipping a lukewarm pint.