Barley Mow Review: The Song Is a Drinking Test

Barley Mow Review: The Song Is a Drinking Test

It is a cumulative song, it gets faster, and the entire point is that you will eventually fail to say it

The Barley Mow on Curtain Road holds a 4.2 from five hundred and sixty-three people, charges ten to twenty pounds, and it is named after a folk song that is a test.

The song

The Barley Mow is a cumulative drinking song, and it is one of the oldest and most widespread in England.

You toast the barley mow – the stack of harvested barley – and you drink from a vessel.

And then you toast it again, from a larger vessel, and you have to name every vessel that came before.

The nipperkin. The gill pot. The half a pint. The pint. The quart. The pottle. The gallon. The half-anker. The anker. The half-hogshead. The hogshead. The pipe. The well. The river. The ocean.

And by the end you are reciting the entire list, in order, from memory, at speed, having had a drink at every stage.

The Barley Mow. The song is a test. You are supposed to fail.

The point of it

You are supposed to fail.

That is the design. The list gets longer, the tempo gets faster, and the singer has been drinking throughout – and there is a moment, which everybody in the room is waiting for, when he cannot get through it.

It is a sobriety test disguised as a song, administered by a pub, to laughter.

The Prat’s folkloric desk regards it as the single most honest piece of English culture it has encountered in six postcodes.

The vessels

Which are real, and which is the part that makes it valuable.

These are actual historical measures. A nipperkin is roughly an eighth of a pint. A pottle is two quarts. An anker is around ten gallons. A hogshead is fifty-four.

The song is, in effect, a mnemonic for the entire English system of liquid measure – and it was very probably learned as one, by people who needed to know it, in a trade where getting it wrong cost money.

Almost every one of those words is now dead. They survive in this song and essentially nowhere else.

The mow

Which is not the verb.

A mow, in this sense, is a stack – a pile of harvested grain, stored in a barn – and it rhymes with cow, not with go.

And the toast is to the harvest itself: to the barley being in, and safe, and dry, which after a wet autumn was not a small thing and was worth drinking about.

The whole song is a harvest celebration, and it is about the relief of having got the crop in before the weather turned.

The pub

Cheap, honest, and a 4.2 across a real sample.

Verdict

Good pub. Go, and learn the list, and then try to say it after four pints.

You will not manage it. Nobody manages it. That is what it is for.

The cumulative song

Which is a whole genre and which exists for a reason.

The Twelve Days of Christmas. Green Grow the Rushes. One Man Went to Mow. Old MacDonald.

They are all doing the same thing – building a list that must be recited in full, from memory, faster each time – and they are all, in origin, either teaching devices or tests.

The Prat’s musical desk regards this as the oldest surviving educational technology in English and notes that it was designed for people who could not read, that it works extremely well, and that we still use it on four-year-olds without knowing why.

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