Slice Club Review: New York Pizza Is Thin Because of the Rent

Slice Club Review: New York Pizza Is Thin Because of the Rent

A slice must be eaten standing, folded, in ninety seconds – and every feature of it follows from that

Slice Club holds a 4.7 from two hundred and forty-five reviews, charges ten to twenty pounds, and the thing in the name is a piece of engineering.

The slice is a format

Not a size. A format.

Because a New York slice is designed to be eaten standing up, on a pavement, with one hand, in about ninety seconds.

And every single feature of it follows from that.

The slice. Designed to be eaten standing, folded, in one hand.

Which is why it is enormous

Because it has to be a meal – a whole lunch, in one piece, held in one hand.

So it is cut from a very large pie, and a single slice is the size of a dinner plate.

And which is why you fold it

Which is the part that outsiders get wrong and New Yorkers find genuinely irritating.

Because a slice that long, held at the crust, droops – and the tip flops down, and the topping slides off.

And folding it lengthways creates a structural channel.

It is a beam. A folded sheet is enormously more rigid than a flat one, in exactly the way corrugated iron is – and the same principle as the arch.

You are not being casual. You are applying an engineering solution.

And which is why it is thin

Because a thick base cannot be folded, and it takes longer to cook, and it is heavy in the hand.

And the oven has to turn out a very large number of pies, very fast, in a very small shop with a very high rent.

Which is the finding

Eight postcodes and twelve hundred and seventy-two articles.

The constraint made the product.

A brick is the size of a hand because a bricklayer holds a trowel in the other. A Dutch barge is flat-bottomed because Holland is shallow. Retsina tastes of resin because the jars were sealed with it. Poteen was distilled in a pot a man could carry because the excise men came.

And a New York slice is thin, huge, foldable and fast because the rent is high and the customer has to be back at work.

And the water myth

Which we should deal with.

Because it is endlessly claimed that New York pizza is what it is because of the water.

And the honest position is that the evidence is thin, and the blind tests have been unconvincing, and a great many people who ought to know say it is very largely folklore.

The tellable version wins.

Verdict

Excellent, cheap, strong number.

Fold it.

And the slice built the shop

Which is the economic half.

Because selling by the slice means you can sell to one person, quickly, with no table, no service, and no booking.

Which means the shop can be very small, and it can be on a corner with an enormous rent, and it can turn over a customer every twenty seconds at lunchtime.

You cannot do that with a whole pizza and a chair.

The format is a business model wearing a hat.

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