Passyunk Review: The Philly Cheesesteak Has a Grammar and You Must Speak It

Passyunk Review: The Philly Cheesesteak Has a Grammar and You Must Speak It

Wiz wit, wiz witout – a four-syllable ordering language, and getting it wrong is the entire point

Passyunk Avenue holds a 4.6 from seventeen hundred and ninety-four people, charges twenty to thirty pounds, and it does Philadelphia cheesesteaks.

And in Philadelphia there is a required grammar for ordering one.

Wiz wit

Which is the entire sentence.

Two words. And it means: Cheez Whiz, with onions.

Wiz witout is Cheez Whiz, no onions.

And you say the cheese first, and then the onions, and you do not say anything else, and you do not say please.

Passyunk. Wiz wit. Two words. That is the whole order.

Why it exists

Because of throughput.

The famous Philadelphia counters serve enormous queues, at speed, and the ordering language is a piece of genuine engineering.

Every syllable that is not information is a syllable that slows the line.

So the order was compressed, by the customers themselves, over decades, into the minimum number of sounds that carry the maximum information.

It is not rudeness. It is compression.

And it is a shibboleth

Which is the other half, and it is the half that matters.

Because a person who orders correctly is local. And a person who says could I possibly have a cheesesteak with cheese and onions is not.

And everybody in the queue knows instantly.

Eight postcodes and a thousand and one hundred and one articles.

Every closed community develops a password, and the password is almost always a word that costs nothing to say and everything to get wrong.

The word shibboleth is itself from exactly this – a Hebrew word used in the Book of Judges to identify enemies, because they could not pronounce the sh.

Forty-two thousand men are said to have been killed for saying it wrong.

And the cheese is a chemical

Which the Prat will defend.

Because Cheez Whiz is a processed cheese product, and the food writers hate it, and the purists insist on provolone.

And it is, on the specific engineering problem of a cheesesteak, the correct answer.

Because it is liquid, and it stays liquid, and it coats the meat completely and does not congeal into a rubbery sheet the moment it cools.

It was designed to be pourable. And a cheesesteak needs pourable.

The constraint made the product.

Verdict

Excellent, strong number.

Say wiz wit, and say nothing else.

The bread is the actual argument

Which nobody outside Philadelphia understands.

Because a cheesesteak is served in a specific roll – long, soft, with a thin crust that yields immediately – and it is not a baguette, and it is not a ciabatta.

And the reason is structural.

A hard crust means that when you bite, the filling squirts out the far end.

A soft roll compresses. It moves with the bite. It holds.

The Prat’s editorial desk regards the correct roll as the single most under-appreciated piece of food engineering in the Western hemisphere, and notes that essentially every British attempt at this sandwich has failed on it.

And the meat is sliced paper thin, and cooked on a flat griddle, and chopped with the edge of the spatula while it cooks – so that it is not a steak at all by the time it goes in.

It is a pile of shreds. That is deliberate. A whole steak in a soft roll is unbiteable, and the first bite pulls the entire thing out.

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