Obica Review: Mozzarella Di Bufala Comes From a Water Buffalo and Nobody Knows Why It Is Here

Obica Review: Mozzarella Di Bufala Comes From a Water Buffalo and Nobody Knows Why It Is Here

An Asian animal, farmed in southern Italy for a thousand years, and the historians cannot agree how it arrived

Obica holds a 4.1 from eleven hundred and fifty-five people, charges twenty to fifty pounds, and it is built around mozzarella di bufala.

Which comes from a water buffalo.

Which is an Asian animal.

Which is genuinely strange

Because the water buffalo is native to South Asia – to India, and the swamps and river valleys of the subcontinent – and it has been domesticated there for thousands of years.

And there are tens of thousands of them in Campania, in southern Italy, and there have been for something like a thousand years.

Obica. The buffalo is Asian. Nobody agrees how it got to Italy.

And nobody knows how

Which is the honest answer, and the Prat has looked, and the historians genuinely do not agree.

The candidates:

The Arabs, who brought them to Sicily, and from there north.

The Normans, who brought them back from a crusade.

The Lombards, or the Goths, or somebody else in the enormous confusion of the migration period.

Or – and this is the least romantic and possibly the most likely – they were already there, in some form, having drifted west with somebody nobody wrote down.

Eight postcodes and twelve hundred and four articles.

A thing exists. Nobody wrote down why. And a beautiful explanation is supplied, later, by somebody who could not bear the gap.

Why the buffalo, though

And this we can answer, and the answer is the marshes.

Because the coastal plains of Campania were, for a very long time, swamp – wet, malarial, and essentially useless for cattle.

And a cow does badly in a marsh. Her feet rot. She sinks.

And a water buffalo does extremely well – because that is precisely the environment she evolved in, and she is built for it.

So an animal from the Ganges turned out to be the one creature that could convert a useless malarial swamp into protein.

The constraint made the product.

And the milk is different

Which is why it matters.

Buffalo milk has roughly double the fat of cow’s milk, and considerably more protein and calcium.

Which is why the cheese is what it is – richer, softer, and with that liquid centre that a cow’s-milk mozzarella simply cannot produce.

Verdict

Good food, honest number.

Eat the buffalo, which walked here from Asia and nobody knows when.

And it must be eaten immediately

Which is the constraint that defines it.

Because a true mozzarella di bufala is at its best within hours.

Not days. Hours.

It is a fresh cheese, sitting in its own whey, and every hour that passes it loses texture and it firms and it dulls.

Which is why, for most of history, you could only eat it near where it was made – and it is why it was a local food for a thousand years and a global luxury for about forty.

The aeroplane made it possible. And a mozzarella that has been on a plane is still not the one they eat in Campania, and everybody involved knows it.

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